Saturday, May 26, 2012

Pink For The Bedroom


Pink For The Bedroom
It was in ’62 while posted in a remote district of insurgency ridden  Nagaland that I decided to take the plunge. I had been doing the rounds of postings on various mountain tops and jungle locations that were de-rigeur for all junior infantry officers, and considered myself something of an expert on jungle warfare, having topped all professional courses, till one day over the third rum, my drinking partner, an elderly major advised me in rural punjabi, “Kaka, ki kar reyan. Aiddan rum peendan jayenga, ya vyah-shyah karaan da koi plan hai? [What are you doing young man? Are you planning to get married or just keep on drinking your life away?] Unknown to me, the usual correspondence and negotiations that precede most Indian marriages were well under way nearly three thousand Km away at home in Ambala. As was usually the case in those days, things were mostly firmed up without the groom’s knowledge and all I was required to do was to apply for leave to get married. Naturally, my company subedar, a dour Gurkha veteran of World War II, with the imposing name of Bam Bahadur Thapa, approved of it long before the CO knew about it.
In the early sixties, the outfit where I was posted, did not have regular government accommodation for its officers and men. In any case, living in a remote jungle, inside a fenced perimeter ringed with eight LMG posts and crisscrossed by roving patrols there were no such niceties. So when the Subedar asked me whether Memsa’ab would join me, I realized I hadn’t considered the aspect of where wife-to-be would stay. “If Memsa’ab is coming, let me know, I will do something”, was his cryptic reply. My query on what he would do, drew a laconic shrug in response and he instead began to discuss the forthcoming volleyball championship.
Having negotiated the three day train journey home, I put the question to the memsa’ab to be whether she would like to move to my remote jungle location or whether she would prefer to sit out the remainder of my field assignment in more civilized Ambala. Predictably, the future homemaker stamped a dainty foot and with a toss of her head decreed that she expected me to make full arrangements for her stay in far away Deephu. Further, the size, scale and quality of the future accommodation was required to be nearly as good as Daddy’s house in Srinagar. With some trepidation I wrote off a letter to Subedar Sahib, announcing the impending arrival of the Memsa’ab, hoping he would keep his word.
Several days later, when a newly minted husband and wife arrived at the unit location having traversed a tiring and difficult journey, they were met by the Subedar. I couldn’t stop staring at him for he had a gap where his tightly lipped mouth used to be and a strange expression resembling a smile, on his face. He was followed by a crowd of beaming, giggling Gurkhas led by Ganga Bahadur. A stern look from Thapa froze them into silence while he, in the manner of the proud father of the groom leading a marriage party, showed us to our future home. I was struck speechless, for before us stood a brand new cottage in the traditional Naga style, that I could have sworn hadn’t existed a month ago.
My better half was also silent, for I suspect that she had been expecting a cottage of the style commonly seen in Srinagar, with a sloping red roof, a fireplace and lace curtains in the windows instead of the green bamboo jungle dwelling in front of us. However I didn’t venture to find out.
On arrival of my letter, Subedar sa’ab had set his boys to work. I didn’t know that several members of my company, probably including the otherwise inscrutable battle hardened JCO, nursed secret architectural dreams and were only too glad to experiment while building a house for their Company Commander. Teams were sent into the forest to search for bamboo of varying dimensions. Sturdy bamboo trunks as thick as a man’s thigh were used as the main columns of the house. Smaller diameter trunks were used as the horizontal beams supporting the walls. The design was simple and functional. A small verandah led into a drawing cum dining room, a door from which led into the bedroom. Attached to the bedroom was a toilet and bathroom, complete with toilet seat. The toilet design would have done credit to many of our current ‘green buildings’. The seat was placed above a twenty or thirty foot deep bore hole. Similarly, the bath area consisted of a bamboo mesh placed above a six feet by six feet square pit into which drained the bath water through the gaps in the bamboo mesh. Thus there was no problem of drying the bathroom. As the soil consisted mainly of mud, water in the pit slowly drained through the soil, as a result of which the pits didn’t need clearing for a few years. Further, the moist heat of the jungle ensured that decomposition of organic matter took place rapidly.
The walls were made from a double layered tightly woven mesh of bamboo, so impenetrable that not even light could find its way through. The walls were secured to the columns and beams using finely scraped strings of bamboo or other local vines. Windows consisted of a gap in the walls enforced by a bamboo grille with a flap that could be let down to enclose it completely. The whole structure was covered by thatch so thick that even the unrelenting jungle torrents could not seep through. A passage from the drawing room led off to a pantry and kitchen store, while the kitchen was located at some distance from the main dwelling. The Memsa’ab was expected to confine herself to the house as the Subedar sa’ab took a dim view of young officers’ wives having unfettered access to the surroundings.
There was no electricity and running water of course, but every morning, the unit tanker delivered water from the Jamuna river, a lesser known north-eastern namesake of her more famous cousin, into a forty gallon drum placed strategically near the entrance. From there on, Ganga Bahadur took charge of it, distributing it to various buckets. Light was provided by a hurricane lantern spreading its benevolence no more than five feet. As the mistress of the manor believed in bright lights, a petromax was added, that gave plenty of light but also added to the considerable tropical heat. Subedar sa’ab had thought of everything, including cane sofas for the drawing room and a bamboo double bed. The only problem was paint, as there were only four colours in the unit – plenty of olive green, but lesser quantities of white, red and yellow. While the jawans had used olive green paint generously, when the Subedar sa’ab arrived for inspection to review the efforts of his boys, he growled, “You idiots have used green in the bedroom as well. Don’t you know, memsa’abs like pink?” So it was that white and red were mixed together to produce various shades of pink, till the old soldier grunted with satisfaction and decreed, “Use pink for the bedroom.”
The old soldier had made his plans with all the seriousness of a company attack on a hostile post. However there was one small area that was alien to him. Having been brought up since childhood on a palette of natural colours found in forests, he remembered the most exotic shades of pink seen on jungle flowers. On the other hand, the person he was trying so hard to please considered the English and Parisian shades found between the covers of ‘Woman and Home’, the only colours worthy of emulating.  Thus it was that we were struck speechless when we entered a bedroom in the most shocking shade of pink designed to knock your eyeballs from their sockets, covering the walls, the floor, the ceiling and even the bed. Thankfully, Memsa’ab held her counsel, and even managed to mumble some polite sounds while Subedar Thapa beamed like an indulgent father.
However I caught a sidelong look and it took all my training in evading Naga ambushes to avoid ‘a keel hauling’, in that wonderfully evocative phrase of sailors. Over the next few months we discreetly changed the colour of the bedroom to a more sedate white.

Passing The Lawn Test


Passing The Lawn Test
I watched helplessly as our irreverent Boxer, Bruno, having deposited a free gift on my carefully tended lawn, proceeded to dig it up in a shower of grass and clods of earth. Having completed his ablutions and ignoring my threats, he sauntered off, leaving me to clean up and repair the damage. As I went about the task it took me back fifty years to Deephu in Nagaland, where I was posted when I acquired my better half.
The fifties were a great period to be the nubile daughter of a senior officer and my new bride, living in Srinagar at that time, enjoyed every minute of the devoted attention lavished by an army of attendants, in awe of her father. It didn’t matter that the new husband was a junior officer way down the pecking order, who didn’t have a fraction of Daddy’s resources. A husband was expected to provide the same lifestyle that the young lady had grown up with. He was also expected to know her requirements in advance. What kind of an officer was he, if he didn’t?
It didn’t help that I was posted in Nagaland at that time. Dimapur then was far more remote than can be imagined today, fifty years later. My living quarters consisted of a modest bamboo cottage constructed by the deft hands and raw native intellect of my Gurkha jawans, but with the complete absence of modern amenities. There was neither running water nor electricity. Water for drinking, bathing, cooking and everything else was fetched every morning from a nearby mountain stream by the unit tanker and deposited in a forty gallon drum placed prominently near the entrance. I had of course, sung ample praises of our would be nest before we arrived there as a couple.
As the reality of the transition from Srinagar to Deephu began to sink in, a few days later the new memsa’ab demanded, “Where’s the lawn?”. It didn’t concern her that the ground in front of the cottage was hard as rock or that there was a shortage of water. After all, there was a beautiful lawn with flowers in front of Daddy’s home in Srinagar.
I put the query to my trusty minder, Ganga Bahadur, “Memsa’ab lai lawn chahicha (Memsa’ab wants a lawn)”. Ganga was the salt of the earth, a typical Gurkha completely devoted, but with a more than a little fondness for the local brew. Having been injured in a Naga ambush few years earlier, he found the regular unit duties difficult and was content to look after my few needs. “Hujoor, ma garchu”, he declared with the conviction of a man being assigned an important tactical task. To assist him, I assigned another man, younger by a few years, but with a tongue – twister of a name that I simplified to Younger Bahadur, which later evolved into Younga, rhyming with Ganga.
An area for the green patch was duly staked out and Ganga and Younga were despatched to look for suitable grass that could be planted there. However two days of search proved fruitless. Since I could discern the stirrings of discontent in the high command at this apparent inactivity, I rapidly pointed the two volunteer horticulturists in the direction of the forest to find suitable wild grass. This time they returned beaming like a couple of school kids.
Our elation was however short-lived as despite the best attempts at coaxing the grass by sharing our precious water, it refused to grow. The memsa’ab meanwhile observed the proceedings with a mixture of amusement and disdain. Faced with the prospect of the memsa’ab’s displeasure, Ganga and Younga worked their grey cells overtime, an activity they had a distinct aversion to. Finally Younga declared that he knew what the problem was. “We need to dig deeper holes” he analysed, so that the roots could get nourishment. The duo promptly set about digging deeper holes with energy, interspersed with profound discussions on life’s problems. Another bundle of grass from the forest was fetched and planted with all the confidence of one who knew he had licked the problem. For good measure the grass was planted in a criss-cross pattern known to encourage a thick growth. But the grass in the true tradition of the Nagas refused to give in so easily and elation soon turned to disappointment.
To keep up the morale of the troops, I stepped in. That’s what officers are for anyway. I advised them to get tufts of grass from the forest along with clumps of mud. “This will work sa’ab” they declared with the unshakeable faith of a Gurkha in his khukri. A few days of digging later, the tufts of grass were planted close to each other and carefully watered by two now determined Gurkhas. An auspicious time was chosen and the home commander, who was by now visibly restless, was invited to inspect the patch of green. “Not bad”, she declared, while three soldiers grinned at each other, with one already seeing visions of his evening tipple. “Now can we stretch a net across, so that we can have a game of badminton in the evenings?” the memsa’ab continued without a hint of hesitation. This was small stuff after the effort put in and was promptly executed.
When I got home the next day, tea was laid out on the lawn, a cake had been baked, the best embroidered tea-cosy and table cloth was on display, racquets were arranged and the stage set for our first badminton game. Memsa’ab was ready in her outfit, a la Madhubala style. Two minutes into the game disaster struck. A gap between the tufts of grass caught her foot and nearly twisted it bringing her down Madhubala and all. Flinging the racquet down, the newly planted lawn was declared an accident waiting to happen. Ganga and Younga the two seasoned soldiers, who saw their boss getting it, decided to make discretion the better part of valour and beat a tactical retreat into the forest.
The efficiency of the infantry, the honor of the battalion and the credibility of its adjutant, were now seriously in danger and additional help was summoned. Minor matters like counter-insurgency patrols were set aside for the time being, in order to focus on the more important matter of a lawn. A truce of sorts was arranged with the local Nagas, who clucked sympathetically at our dilemma. They too applied their vast intelligence of plants. Slowly a foolproof plan emerged.
The lawn was quickly dug up to remove the top layer and a mixture of cow dung, mud and grass was spread evenly over the rectangle. Watering was done almost with religious fervor. Finally, the first shoots of grass appeared and were welcomed as tenderly as new born babies. Slowly the grass began to spread and resemble a decent lawn. Once again with trepidation we invited the Memsa’ab to view our efforts. Three pairs of eyes watched her every expression. “Much better, very nice in fact” was her response as she gingerly walked over the lawn testing it for unlikely traps. Seemingly satisfied, as she walked back to the house as she called over her shoulder, “But there’s no hedge. We can’t have a lawn without a hedge, can we?”.